Guru Nanak in Baghdad, Iraq

The first Guru of the Sikhs, Guru Nanak Dev Ji travelled across the world spreading the word of truth. One of the places Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited during this quest was Baghdad in Iraq. He wasn’t welcome here and stones were pelted on him and was later thrown into the well.

What was the reason behind this behavior of the people in Baghdad? The reason was that the recitation of ‘Sat Naam’ by Guru Nanak Dev Ji which didn’t match the slogan used by the locals while reciting the name of God. The ‘Jap'(recitation) on the name of God done by Guru Nanak was different from that of the local crowd. Guru Nanak was then taken out of the well and seeing that he still survives was presented before Peer Bahlol Shah. Peer Bahlol Shah, also known by the name of Dastgeer (one who holds arms of others- not in literal sense but as being a saviour) was not only the political leader of Baghdad but the religious leader as well. Peer Bahlol Shah was sitting on his throne and Guru Nanak Dev Ji were presented before him like a criminal.

Dastgeer said, “O Hindi Peer (Indian Saint), 3 questions always rotate in my mind, if you are able to solve them, I shall put my head on your feet and if you cannot answer them, I’ll consider you as a Kafir who has come to our country to spoil our faith. You will also be awarded the penalty of Sangsar (Burried in ground till knees and hit with stones from all around).” To this Guru Nanak replied that he won’t answer his questions from the fear of Sangsar but because he has left his home for nothing but to give answers. Dastgeer asks his question, “O Hindi Peer, What was there before Khudah (God)?” Guru Nanak said there is a pattern which is followed when he answers anyone’s questions. For your first question, bring a plate filled with pearls. Dastgeer found this strange and assumed that Guru Nanak is definitely someone greedy as he is asking for pearls even before answering a single question. Dastgeer was a very popular and appreciated person, he was always showered with wealth by all, so fulfilling this demand of Nanak was not a big deal for him. He did as Guru Nanak requested and signaled to bring the pearls before the saint. On arrival of the plate full of pearls, Guru Nanak asked Dastgeer to count them and do so loudly. Dastgeer started counting, “1, 2…” and was stopped by Guru Nanak asking him to count correctly. Dastgeer was stunned at Nanak’s behavior and thought where did the counting went wrong? He asked Guru Nanak Dev Ji about where was he wrong? I just started counting. Guru Nanak said you did the mistake in the very beginning. Dastgeer thought maybe I actually did some mistake and should restart the counting. He starts again and is stopped immediately by Guru Nanak once again. Guru Nanak said you ask big questions but cannot even do basic counting. Dastgeer got irritated this time and said, “Listen Fakeer (Saint), do not waste time in talks of here and there, just stop me at the exact time when I do mistake while counting.” He starts counting again and Guru Nanak stops him just after he counts one and says here’s your mistake. Dastgeer asked what exactly is my mistake? Guru Nanak said you start counting from one, start it before one. Dastgeer said how is it possible to start counting before one when there is nothing before one? To this Guru Ji said, that’s exactly the reply to your question, how can I tell what there is before Khudah when there is nothing before Khudah? Everyone and everything came from him, there’s nothing before God. The method of explanation and the words of Guru Nanak shook the heart of Peer Bahlol Shah.

Dastgeer moves on to ask his second question but lacks confidence in asking this time. He asks, “Where does Khudah (God) live”? Guru Nanak Ji reminded him that a method will be followed to answer the questions and asked for some milk for the answer of question 2. Dastgeer thinks that this Peer has been in Iraq for some days, he was pelted with stones and thrown into well but none has offered him any food. He had also heard that Indian Saints are fond of milk. Milk was brought before Guru Nanak Dev Ji in an Islamic style utensil and Dastgeer said that you can answer my questions after drinking the milk. Guru Nanak Dev Ji stared at the milk and Dastgeer says, “You can drink it, it is pak (pure).” Guru Nanak said, “This milk is pak, I agree but there is something inside it.” Dastgeer wonders if any of his workers mixed something in the milk but goes on to say that the milk is completely fine. Guru Nanak still insists that there is something inside it. Dastgeer says I cannot see what’s inside it, if you can see please let me know. Guru Nanak asks Bahlol Shah whether there is Ghee inside this milk? To this Bahlol Shah says yes, there is Ghee inside this milk. Guru Nanak says can you see it? Dastgeer says no it cannot be seen. Guru Nanak explains, there is Ghee in every part of milk but cannot be seen, there is Khudah in each and every particle but cannot be seen. Dastgeer shaken by the answer of the Hindi Peer comes to a conclusion that this is indeed a great saint who has come to the city of Baghdad. This saint knows all about Allah (God) and the residents of Baghdad were too blind to see his greatness.

Dastgeer continues the chain of his questions and says please satisfy me with the answer of this third question as well. The question is, “What job does God perform?” Continuing the trend of methods followed for answering the questions, Guru Nanak said this question will be answered in a similar manner as well. [When such a question is asked, the answer comes from intelligence and this intelligence is the God himself.] Guru Nanak says to Peer Bahlol Shah that you are sitting on the throne as a king and I am standing here as a criminal, this is a disrespect to God. Dastgeer asked what should be done regarding this? Come stand here at my place and I’ll sit on the throne, said Nanak. Dastgeer valued the answer to this question over his throne and thought giving away the throne for this answer will be worth it. He comes down from his throne and lets Guru Nanak take the throne. Guru Nanak Dev Ji sat with his eyes closed and when he didn’t open his eyes for some time, Dastgeer asked for the answer to his third question. Guru Nanak said, “You didn’t understand? This is what God does. He brings people down from their throne and lets others rise to the throne.” Getting the perfect answers to his questions, Peer Bahlol Shah fell on the feet of Guru Nanak Dev Ji and became his follower. He stayed in the company of Guru Nanak Dev Ji throughout Guru Nanak’s stay in Baghdad, Iraq.

Sant Singh Maskeen Ji explained his visits to Iraq in his Katha (lecture). Earlier there was no Gurudwara but only a Tharhi (sculpture as Guru Nanak’s memorial) in Baghdad which was constructed by Peer Bahlol Shah in honor of Guru Nanak Dev Ji. This memorial had a name and description of Guru Nanak Dev Ji written on it. The description was written in ancient Arabic. This text still exists today. On request of some Sikhs, Saddam Hussein gave the permission for the construction of Gurudwara at this place. The Gurudwara still exists in Baghdad, Iraq next to the grave of Dastgeer (Peer Bahlol Shah).

[This article is English translation of the Punjabi Katha by Gianni Sant Singh Maskeen on Guru Nanak’s visit to Baghdad, Iraq.]